How long have you been collecting pieces from Balenciaga?

“Balenciaga: Spanish Master” is on view through Feb. 19, 2011 and will travel to the de Young Museum in San Francisco on March 26, 2011.

A. Q.

I started collecting couture when I was about 10 or 11 years-old and the very first piece I bought was a Balenciaga suit from 1962. It was a charity sale and they had an auction and the great British ballerina Margot Fonteyn donated a Balenciaga bolero from the 1940s coach bags, which was more than I could possibly afford. I regretted it – then about five years ago in Los Angeles coach bags, I walked into a vintage store and found it in one of the cases downstairs.

Do you believe that Nicolas Ghesquiere’s current collections capture the heritage and history of the brand?
I think that Nicolas Ghesquiere has the same engagements with pushing fashion forward with fabric innovation and changing the silhouette. I think [his work is] closer to Balenciaga’s right near the end of his career when he was really challenging himself more. I think there is definitely a connection.

Still buzzing over Billy Reid’s win at the CFDA Awards and the news of the royal engagement, various fashion cognoscenti trekked up to the landmark townhouse occupied by the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute (684 Park Avenue, at 68th Street) to get a sneak peek at the exhibition, “Balenciaga: Spanish Master.” Oscar de la Renta coach bags, the Institute’s Chairman of the Board explained that the influences in his world “were very Spanish because even after his big success in Paris he still remained very Spanish as a person.” He went on to say that Balenciaga “was deeply influenced by all the culture and folklore of Spain from the religious to the gypsy and the flamencos and bullfighters.” T caught up with Hamish Bowles, who curated the show but who also has an impressive collection of Balenciaga all his own.

What is it about Balenciaga’s work that speaks to you?
Our exhibition really traces the trajectory of his Paris career from 1937 to 1968. In 1937 he already had 20 years of experience behind him and very successful businesses. What is remarkable to me is in 1967, when he was in his early 70s, [Balenciaga is] doing the most experimental and extraordinary clothes. I think what struck me is that he is continuously inventing and reinventing, even if it is the same themes they are always handled in different and challenging ways.